Shoe machine



Nov. 6, 1945. ASHWORTH 2,388,245 V SHOE MACHINE Filed April 8, 1944 s sheets-sheet 1 FRED ASHNORTH B YH ATTORNEY f Nov. e, 1945.

F. ASHWORTH 2,388,245

SHOE MACHINE 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed April 8, 1944 N Benin?" 4 BY:IS ATTORNEY FRED ASHNORTH F. ASHWORTH SHOE MACHINE Filed April 8, 1944 Nov. 6, 1945 5 Sheets-Sheet 3 F. ASHWORTH l SHOE MACHINE Nov. 6, 1945.

Filed April 8, 5 Sheets-Sheet 4 Nov; 6,19%. F. ASHWORTH 5 Sheet-Sheet 5 Filed April 8, 1944 EJ672107 FRED ASH/10R 7 H B Q /.S A TTORNE) Patented Nov. 6, 1945 SHOE MACHINE Fred Ashworth, Wenham, Mass., assignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Flemington, N. J a corporation of New Jersey Application April 8, 1944, Serial No. 530,108

27 Claims.

The present invention relates primarily to sewing machines particularly of the type for operating upon heavy stiff materials such as shoe soles and is herein illustrated as embodied in an improvement of a machine disclosed in inventors prior application Serial No. 499,951, filed August 25, 1943, for operating upon stitchdown shoes in which a welt is sewed to the outturnedupper and projecting margin of an outsole while the parts operated upon are supported upon a last, the leading end of the welt being presented to the stitch forming devices in starting a new seam and being severed without special manual'operations in a novel manner to provide an accurately formed joint between the leading and trailing ends of the welt.

In the machine of the application referred to, a welt cutting knife is provided acting at the end of a sewing operation to form a out without completely severing the welt along that portion in engagement with the Work within a stitch length of the last inserted stitch of a'seam, the welt being finally severed by a pull on the welt when the work is withdrawn from the machine b the operator. In severing the welt by withdrawing the work from the machine, a pull is exerted on the unsevered section of thewelt, causing it to be torn and finally disconnected from the welt remaining in the machine along the line of the cut produced by the knife. The pull thus exerted on the unsevered section of the welt causes the welt to be withdrawn a short distance from other objects of the invention are to improve the operation of a shoe sewing machine both in theconstructicn and arrangement of the stitch,

the machine sufiiciently to bring the out beyond the sewing point. Thereafter, complete separation of the welt at the out line occurs. In starting a new seam, the end of welt remaining in the machine, having already been carried past the sewing point, is in position to be acted upon by the stitch forming devices during the first stitch of a new seam, and the sewing operation is started without requiring the operator to handle the welt manually or to bring it into sewing position before starting,

One object of the present invention is to provide a sewing machine more particularly for sewing welts to shoes and similar heavy mate-- rials in which the welt is completel severed along a portion in contact with the work without danger of injuring the work or affecting its appearance by cutting into the material of the work while the welt is being severed. Other ob jects are to provide in such a sewing machine means for directing a welt into sewing position, for severing the welt along a portion in contact with the work, and for advancing the severed end of the welt across the sewing point in preparation for a new Sewing operation without depending upon the operator of the machine to manipulate or shift the welt, the entire series of operations being performed automatically. Still forming devices and in the mechanism for driving and stopping the stitch forming devices.

In pursuance of these objects, the principal feature of the present invention resides in a sewing machine having a welt guide for directing the welt into a position against the shoe inadvance of the sewingpoint in which there is provided a knife acting against a portion of the- Welt directly in contact with the shoe uppertto sever the welt completely, thus insuring smooth,

accuratelyformed surfaces at the two ends-of the welt which will lie readily in close'fitting contact when brought together after completion of a sewing operation.

When the welt is severed completely by the knife it is necessar toprovide additional means for advancing the severed end of the welt across the sewing point in preparation for a new sew ing operation in order to take full advantage of the time and effort saved by providing a welt cutting knife in the machine, and this feature of the invention contemplates the use of such welt advancing means, preferably acting after the work is released from the machine at the end of a seam.

In order to offset any tendency of the knife to cut into the material of the shoe and form an incision which may open up and form a line of weakness during fiexure of the shoe, the present, driving and mechanism for the machine so arranged invention contemplates the use of stopping that at least one stitch will be, inserted overlapping the extreme final end of the welt on the,

' shoe to connect it with the first end sewed t0 the shoe, the stitch connecting the welt acting to close up the space the welt and to hold the final and first ends of between the severed ends of closed any incision in the shoe formed by the knife in severing the welt so'that the ends of the welt and the incision will be concealedto some extent and the line of weakness formed by the ends and the incision will be strengthened.

While these features of the invention are particularly useful in machines for sewing welts to stitchdown shoes and the invention is herein afted disclosed in connectionwith machines for this purpose, the general construction and ar rangement also is applicable to advantage in other types of sewing machines and even in shoe machines other than sewing machines, I

These and other features of the invention consist in the novel and improved devices, combinations and arrangements of partshereinafter described and claimed, the advantages of which will readily be understood from the following description taken inconnection with the accompanying drawings illustrating one embodiment of the invention.

In the drawings,

Fig. 1 is a view in front elevation of the upper part of a shoe sewing machine embodying the present invention, portions having been broken away and shown in section better to illustrate the construction; I Fig. 2 is a view in side elevation, partially in section on an enlarged scale, of those parts of the machine illustrated in Fig. 1 in which the present invention resides;

Fig. 3 is a detail side view, illustrating the positions of certain parts of the machine while a completed shoe is being removed and the end of welt in the machine advanced across the sewingpoint in preparation for a new sewing operation;

Fig; 4 is a detail view, looking from the right front of the machine, on an enlarged scale, and illustrating the operation of the welt cutting knife and welt clamp, with the parts in positions assumed after operation of the knife to sever the welt;

Fig. 5 isa similar view taken along the line V',V of Fig. 6, illustrating the welt cutting knife and clamp with the parts in the positions assumed after the welt is severed and the severed end advanced in the machine past the sewing point in preparation for a new sewing operation as in Fig. 3;

Fig. 6 is a plan view of the parts illustrated in Fi 4;

Fig. ,7 is a sectional view taken along the line.

VII.VII of Fig. 4;

Fig. .8 is a sectional view taken along the line VHI-VIII of Fig. 4;

Fig.9 .is a'detail side view taken from the right, on an. enlarged scale, of a portion of the driving and stoppingmechanism in the machine together with means for counting the number of stitches inserted after the cutting knife severs the Welt; the partsbeing illustrated in positions assumed directly after release of the control treadle of the machine;

Fig. 10. is a similar view of the same parts, illustrating their positions after the treadle has been released but before the. welt cutting knife is actuated; 7

Fig. 11. is asimilar view, illustrating the positions taken at the time. the welt cutting knife is rendered operative;

Fig. 12 illustrates the same parts after the welt cutting knife has been actuated but before the final stitch hasbeen inserted;

Fig. l3 illustrates the same parts of the machine. in positions assumed during the final stitch forming cycle;

'Fig. 14 is a view in rear elevation of the parts illustrated in Fig. 13';

Fig. 15 isv a perspective view partly broken away, showing a stitchdown shoe of the type sewn on the illustrated machine;

Fig. 16 is a sectional view, on an enlarged scale, of the projecting marginal portions of a shoe asgthey would appear from the front of the machine at the end of an outseam before the final two stitches of the seam have been inserted. the welt cutting knife being shown in actuated position;

Fig. 17 is a similar sectional view, illustrating the marginal portions of the shoe after the welt cuttingknife has acted and the shoe has been fed a stitch length from the welt severing position, the severed end of the Welt being illustrated as beginning to separate during feed;

.Fig. l8 is a sectional view of the same portions of the shoe after the next to last stitch has been inserted;

Fig. 19 is a sectional view of the same portions of the shoe after the shoe has been fed another stitch length to bring the first stitch of the seam substantially into line with the sewing point, the severed end of the welt being illustrated as fully separated; and

Fig. 20 is a similar sectional View, illustrating the shoe after the final stitch has been inserted.

The machine illustrated in the drawings is an outsole shoe sewing machine constructed and arranged to insert a lockstitch outseam in a shoe and is similar, exceptas hereafter described, to the machine disclosed in United States Letters Patent No. 2,271,611, granted February 3, 1942, upon an application filed in the names of Fred Ashworth and Carl F. Whitaker, as well as to the machine disclosed in inventors prior application above identified to which reference may be had for a more complete description of the construction and mode of operation.

The features of the invention embodied in the present machine are intended to simplify and improve the operation of the machine disclosed in the prior application-and to operate upon the marginal portions of a stitchdown shoe, such as is illustrated in Fig. 15, which is of the same generalnature as that operated upon in the machine of the application. The stitchdown shoe illustrated in Fig. 15 is provided with an upper 2 havin an outturned margin, an insole 1, an outsole 6 and a finish welt 8, the surfaces at the ends of which are brought into abutting relation at ill to form a smooth finished joint the surfaces of which are cut with a bevel.

The; machine of the prior application is constructed and'arranged to insert a final stitch in a seam intersecting bevel cut surfaces at the abutting ends of the welt formed bya welt cutting knife in the machine, whereas the present machine is intended not only to insert a single final stitch through the bevel cut surfaces at the ends of the welt but, in addition, also to insert a second final switch after the welt is cut crossing the feather edge at the extreme final end of the welt,

securing the extreme final end against separation from the end first sewed to the shoe.

In the machine of inventors prior application the welt cutting knife leaves a small section of the welt uncut to connect the welt extending from thesewed shoe to the welt supply in the machine while the shoe is being withdrawn from the machine. During continued Withdrawal of the shoe, the welt in the machine moves with the shoe a predetermined limited distance, carrying the cut in the'welt past the sewing point. Thereafter, further withdrawal of the welt is stopped, causing the uncut section to be torn apart, thus severing the welt completely. After the Welt is completely severed by tearing the uncut section in the machine-of the application, the torn section may have an irregular surface which, in some instances, has a tendency to separate slightly from the end of the welt first attached to the shoe with an unsightly gap between the ends, requiring additional treatment such as cementing or trimming to form a smooth finished joint. To reduce the tendency of the final end of welt to separate from the end first attached to the shoe in the machine of inventors application, the

' single stitch inserted through both out surfaces edge on the final end of welt free to curl or lee-- come displaced from the finished contour of the sole edge. i i

As a, further expedient to facilitate securing the final extreme feather edge t the final end ofithe welt-after being severed to the end first attached to the shoe with a smooth joint-and to avoid any roughness in the bevel surfaces at both ends of the welt as a result of tearing an uncut section of the welt, the knife of the present'machine is located and actuated under power to out completely through the welt at the end of the seam without leaving an uncut section, so that the severed surfaces are smooth throughout their entire areas and will lie in close fitting contact with each other when brought together. .Also, the present machine is operated automatically to insert the final stitch entering a full thickness portion of the first welt end attached to the shoe close to or substantially in line with the first stitch of the seam, as indicated in Fig. 20. The welt cutting knife of the illustrated machine is actuated by power from the sewing shafts against the outturned marginal portion of the upper of the shoeas a cutting block, in a manner similar to the knife of the application machine, while the sewing operations are continuing and, in order to insure insertion of the additional final stitch, the threads of which will cross the feather edgeat the final end of the welt, suitable counting mechanism, to be described more fully hereinafter, isprovlded for preventing the machine from being brought to rest immediately after the welt is cut. The counting mechanism causes the machine to be continued in operation while two full stitches are being inserted after the welt is cut, the first of which stitches passes through the bevel cut surfaces of the welt, as m themachine of inventors prior application, and the second of which crosses the feather edge at the final end of the welt, as has been explained.

The stitch forming devices of the present machine include a curved hook needle l2, a curved awl I4, a rotary shuttle for passing each loop of needle thread about a locking thread case IS, a looper I8, a thread finger and other thread handling members actuated by simultaneously rotated sewing shafts 22 and 24 similar to those disclosed in the Ashworth and Whitaker patent above mentioned. The shoe is clamped in the machine during sewing between a work support 26 and a presser foot 28 acting together to clamp, feed and release the shoe during each sewing cycle. To direct the welt 8 into a position on the outturned upper of a stitchdown shoe in advance of the sewing point, the work support 26 is provided with a welt guide 30 provided with a welt receiving slot in that edge of the work support first engaged by the advancing marginal portions of the shoe.

The shoe as originally presented to the machine before sewing comprises only the lasted upper 2,

the insole 4 and the outsole 6- temporarily at When theunsewn shoe is.

tached t6 the insole. applied to the work support, a short length including a bevel cut end of the welt, as illustrated in Fig. 3, projects from the work support across the sewing point and comes into engagement with the cutflanged margin of the shoe upper onthe work support. As soon as the machine is started, a stitch is inserted through a full thickness portion of the welt beyond the bevel cut, the welt beingdrawn through the guide with the shoe as length ofthe'bevel cutsurface of the end of the welt;

The welt severing and beveling knife is indi-' cated at 32. in Figs. 4and 5 and issimilar to that disclosed in inventors prior application, consisting of a thin elongated blade slidingly mounted at its upper end tolmove within the welt guide parallelto the path taken by the welt as it is carried-through the guide above the knife and constructed to sever the welt along the bend in. the welt at the point of contact, of the Welt with the shoe upper wherethe parts are clamped by the worksupport "and presser foot. The mech anism for actuating the welt severing knife is the same as that described in the application referred to and, briefly, consists of a pivot 34 passing through perforationsin the doubled-over lower end of the knife blade, the pivot 34 being carried by one arm of a bell crank 36 rotatable about a downwardly extending screw llllv threaded into a boss 38 on the work support. Another arm of the crank 36is slotted to receive an angularlyi bent end of a link 42 loosely supported inan opening of a plate 44 fastened to the frame. of themachine. The sharpenededge of the -welt severing, knife is held out of engagement with the welt by a coil spring 46 (Fig. 2) surrounding the link between the plate 44 and a clevis block. 48 pivotally connected to a downwardly extending armon a yoke-shaped support 50 swinging on a horizontal shaft 52 secured inthe'machine frame. w The knife actuating mechanism ofwhich the' support 50 is a part includesa rearwardly extending follower lever 54 fulcrumed on a vertical" screw 56 the axis ofwhich is substantiallyat: right angles to the axis of the shaft52 from which the support 50 swings. One arm of the follower lever 54 engages a cam disk 58 secured to the sewing shaft 22. The camdisk 58 has a.

radial projection 60 for depressing the .follower lever when the lever is held inits path. The follower lever, however, normally is held away from the path of the. projection 60, the welt severing knife being held iII'iHODBI'atlVB condition.

I To hold the welt severing knife mechanism inoperative, the'follower lever, which is normallyurgedaxially of the shaft toward the path of the projection 60 by a spring 62 coiled about *the fulcrum screw 56, is locked out of the'path of the projection by releasing connections including a latch 64 having a manually actuated projection at the front of the machine and also a flexible cable 66 passing through asheath 68, arranged to b moved within its sheath. to releasethe follower lever automatically as the end of the seam approaches.- These releasing connections are more fully described in the application referred to. *T0 insure that thefollower lever 54 'will actuate the knife once only after beingreleased by its holding latch, the cam disk 58 has a radially projecting flange formed with an inclined wedging surface 10 for .relocking the follower lever after the welt issevered;

An important advantage in severing the'welt completely during sewing operations follows from the separation of the severed ends of the 'welt before the seam is completed. A a result of separating the severed ends of the welt, several additional stitches may be inserted crossing the L joint in the welt to secure both abutting ends ontheshoe in place without danger of intersecting thesevered end remaining in the machine with the. additional stitches. With the machine of inventors' prior application above referred to, only one additional stitch maybe inserted through the joint in the welt after the welt is cut, since there is no substantial separation of the severed ends the welt until the seam is completed and the shoe. is being withdrawn from the machine. If more than one additional stitch is inserted in the machine of .the application, the seam will intersectithe welt across the cut and'prevent the welt from being severed by a pull to tear the uncut section remaining in the machine. .As illustrated in Figs. 17 to 20, inclusive, of the drawings, after the -weltis severed, the end remaining .in the machine is no longer carried alongwith the shoe but separates therefrom to enable stitches to be inserted across the joint formed by the abutting welt ends on the shoe to the exclusion of the severed end of welt remaining in the machine.

"The illustrated machine is equipped with a driving and stopping mechanism substantially the same as that disclosed in the Ashworth and Whitaker patent and in the application referred to and comprises a high-speed clutch I2 and a lowspeed'clutch I tmounted on the'sewing shaft 24. The low-speed clutch is automatically engaged whenever the high-speed clutch is disengaged and acts to reduce the speed of the machine and to bring the machineto rest with the stitch forming devices free of the work and the work released from the clamping pressure of the work support and. presser foot. The high-speed clutch is directly controlled by suitable connections with a downwardly extending treadle rod I6 (see Figs. 1 and 2) the lower. end of which is connected with a 'yieldingly actuated depressible treadle I9. When the treadle is depressed, the low-speed clutch is disengaged and the high-speed clutch engaged to drive the machine at regular sewing speeds.

The mechanism for engaging and disengaging automatically the low-speed clutch I I is of a conventional construction and includes a vibrating cam-actuated lever 90 having one arm overlying a spring-pressed lock bolt 82 slidably mounted in a horizontally movable carrier 84 for movement' toward and from the vibrating lever. The lock bolt is connected through a link 80 with one arm of a lever 08 having on another of its arms a roll 99 arranged in the path of a cam arm 92 to which the upper end of the treadle rod 76 is pivoted,

the arrangement being such that, when the treadle rod is depressed, the lock bolt-is withdrawn from engagement with the Vibrating lever 80 and the low-speed clutch rendered inoperative. When the treadle is released, the lock bolt engages the vibrating lever and at the proper time in its vibration enters a recess in the lever to cause the low-speed clutch to be thrown into operation. When the lock bolt enters the recess in the vibrating lever, the reaction of the low-speed clutch in bringing itsdriving and driven parts into engagement causes bodily movement of the lock bolt and carrier 84 against the resistance of a spring 94 coiled about a reduced portion of the carrier and, in this way, imparts a yielding pres sure between the low-speed clutch parts.

Inthe machine of the application referred to, a flexible cable corresponding to the'cable 66 in the present machine is connected to a lever corenters the recess in the vibrating lever, the knife actuating mechanism is set in readiness for operation by releasing the-cam lever and. causing it to move into the path of the radial projection 60 on the cam disk 58 during a single rotation of the cam.

In the present illustrated machine, suitable counting mechanism is provided for preventing the driving and stopping mechanisms from bringing the machine to rest until at least two stitches have been inserted after the welt severing knife has been actuated. This mechanism, which is operated after the Welt severing knife has been actuated and before the machine is brought to rest, cooperates with one corner I00 of the vibrating lever 80 and comprises a counting finger having step-cut and detent surfaces 96 and 98 and a detent I02 on the lock bolt carrier 84, respectively. The counting finger consists of an arm I04 pivotally mounted at I06 on a rearwardly extending lug carried by a collar I08 at the lower end of the responding to the lever 88 foractuating the lock bolt toward and from the vibrating lever. The

arrangement is such that, whenith lock bolt.

lock bolt 82' and pressed yieldingly toward the carrier 84 by a spring I09 coiled about the pivot I06 for the arm. The extreme end comprising the first step-cut surface on the arm I04 acts to block the entry of the lock bolt within the recess of the vibrating lever except at certain limited times in each sewing cycle. Thus, the lock bolt is held away from the vibrating lever in a man'- ner similar to that in the application machine, but. the step surfaces of the finger engage the corner I0 also during a successive sewing cycle and the abutment surface 98 on the finger assists in holding the lock bolt out of engagement with the vibrating lever between the times of engagement of the step-cut surfaces 96 on the finger.

The operation of the counting finger will best be understood in connection with Figs. 9 to 13, inclusive. With the machine in operation, when the point of sewing has approached to within approximately the length of three stitches of the first stitch of a seam, the operator releases the treadle, permitting the lock bolt 82 to rise slightly toward the vibrating low-speed clutch actuating lever 00. Engagement of the lock bolt with the lever is prevented, however, as indicated in Fig. 9, by the extreme end surface of the counting finger I 04 acting against the under surface of the vibrating lever. As the machine continues to operate, the vibrating lever moves from the position of Fig. 9 to theposition of Fig. 10 clear of the counting finger, whereupon the detent surface 98 on the counting finger engages the detent I02 onthe lock bolt carrier 84, the counting finger being raised with its upper end surface slightly above the corner I00 of the vibrating lever. Upon return movement of the vibrating lever, the corner I00 moves over the second step-cut surface 99 of the counting finger and presses the counting lever rearwardly out of engagement with the detent I02 on the lock bolt carrier, as illustrated in Fig. 11.

During this movement of the counting finger, the welt severing knife actuating mechanism is set in operative condition. Rearward movement of the counting finger causes a lateral abutment I I0 on the finger to strike the upper end of a latch H2 pivotally mounted on a screw II4 carried by a setting arm I I5 rotatable on a pivot H8. The pivot I I9 is secured in a rearwardly projecting extension I20 of the lock bolt carrier, which projection supports a clamp for the cable sheath 68. When the counting finger is moved rearwardly for the first time (Fig. 11), the arm II6 also is moved rearwardly, and the upper end -the end of welt remaining inthe machineyisadof. the arm is connected to the rearward end of the flexible cable 66 which causes the welt severing knife cam lever 54 to be released from its holding latch and moved into the path of the projection 60 on the operating cam disk, as previously explained.

Directly after the cam lever is moved into the path of the projection 60, the projection engages it and causes the welt to be severed. Thereafter, the vibrating lever again causes the counting finger to be moved forwardly and the counting finger becomes disengaged from the vibrating lever, as shown in Fig. 12. When the counting finger moves forwardly, the setting arm II6 also is 1 returned to its initial position by a spring I2I stretched between the latch I I2 and the lock bolt carrier 84. At this time, the lockbolt engages the under surface of the vibrating lever ,but does not enter the recess in the lever because the recess is out of alinement with the lock bolt. The lock bolt does not enter the recess in the vibrating lever until just before the final sewing cycle when the lock bolt engaging end of the vibrating lever movesrearwardly. The positions of the parts when the lock bolt enters the recess in the vibrating lever are indicated in 13, the vibrating lever having pressed the counting fingeragain rearwardly but, since the lock bolt has been moved upwardly, the abutment on the counting finger does not strike the latch I I2, the counting finger being pivoted directly on the lock bolt carrier and not being raised with the lock boltf In this way, the counting finger is dis connected from the setting arm during the final sewing cycle.

After the lock bolt has entered the recess in the vibrating lever 80, as in Fig. 13, the low-speed driving mechanism is set into operation to cause the machine to complete one more final sewing cycle, which is the second sewing cycle after the welt is severed. During this sewing cycle, the final stitch of a seam is inserted substantially coincident with the first stitch and with an ex posed thread overlapping the extreme feather edge at the final severed end of the welt to hold it against displacement and to close up any gap existing between the bevel cut surfaces at the ends of the Welt. The final stitch is therefore inserted througha full thickness portion of the Walt beyond the beveled cut and forms a secure connection between the ends of the welt.

In the machine of the Ashworth and Whitaker patent and of theapplication, above referred to, thepresser foot is unlocked and disengaged from the work to enable the work to be removed without 'the' necessity of overcoming substantial clamping pressure of the presser foot manually. The mechanism for unlocking the presser foot is a part of the driving and stopping mechanism and is described more fully in the patent and application referred to. Briefly,the unlocking and lifting mechanism includes an elbow lever I22 (see Fig. 2) having a set screw I24 acting against the rearward end of a presser foot unlockin link I26 to release the work substantially of the pressure of the presser foot. Directly after the presser foot is unlocked, it is raised from engagement with the work to a position illustrated in Fig. '3, by meansof a pin I28 carried by the presser foot lifting mechanism, and arranged to act when moved forwardly from right to left in Fig. 2 against a spring I30 mounted within a passage in a presser foot lifting link I32. As soon as the pressure of the presser foot on the work is released and the presser foot is lifted,

vanced across .the point of operation of the stitch forming devices in readiness tolstart a new sewing operation. When'a new shoe is presented to the machine, the welt end is pressedagainst theuppcr surface of the work support and secured in this position within the path of the :stitch forming devices so that it will receive the first stitch of a new seam within its full thickness portion and be carried along as the sewing operationprogresses.

To advance the end of welt remaining in the machine across the sewing point, the presser foot unlocking lever I22 has an upwardly projecting portion through which passes loosely the rearward end of an operating wire I34. The operating wire passes through a sheath I36 clamped at its rearward end to the frame of the machine and at its forward end in a split block I38 forminga part of a welt guide bracket I40 mounted with its welt guiding portionlin substantial alinement with the welt guide 3'0 in the work support. The forward endof the welt advancing operating wire I34 is formedwith a hairpin bend I42 to increase its flexibilityand is' secured within a perforation of a welt clamping lever I44 by a cap screw I46. The weltclamping' lever is pivotally mounted at I48 on a; b1ock I50 provided with a central passage tofit loosely in surrounding relation. to the welt guiding portion of the welt guide bracket I40 in suchaway as to form a slide on the bracket. guiding bracket I40, along the section upon which the block I50 slides,- is slotted in its upper surface .to admit a .weltengaging lugformed integrally with acap plate I52 secured to the slide block I50, Thetwelt guiding portion of the block I50 also is slottedalong its lower surface to receive a terminal portion of the clamping lever I44,

the terminal portion on the clamping lever I44 being locatedto engagethe welt along its under side and to clamp the welt againstthelug portion of the cap plate I52, thus providing a secure grip on the welt when the clamping lever is moved about its pivot I48. The hairpin bend I42 of the operating wire is so tensioned that, when the lever is actuated against the welt, it causes the weltclamping lever to engage the welt yieldingly in the. welt guide and moves the slide block I50 from the positionof Fig. 4 to that of Fig. 5,carrying with it the welt to advance the end past the sewing point.

In order to insure that the presser foot will be unlocked and raised from the work before the welt end is advanced, the rearward end of the operating wire I34 has a pair'of collars I54 secluding severingthe weltand unlocking and raise ing the presser foot, are delayed by the action of the counting finger. The counting finger also controls the actuation of the low-speed clutch in such a way that at least two stitches will be inserted infthe shoe after the welt is severed. 'In' a similar manner, other auxiliary operations The welt guiding portion of the might well be delayed or controlled by the counting finger either in connection with-sewing operations or where a welt severing knife is employed on welt attaching machines other than sewing machines. i r

I During the starting of a new seam, the presser foot unlocking lever I22 is-moved in the reverse direction, causing, the wire to be'drawn rearwardly' and the slide blockliiflreturned to the position of Fig. 4. During this return movement, the hairpin bend I 42 of the operating wire .is prevented from opening by a flat band 156 surrounding parallel arms of the hairpin bend.

.Movement of the. wire while resetting the slide block tends tocause the grip on the welt by the clamping lever to be released and facilitates return of the slide block without retracting the .welt end. The welt end is secured in sewing position before the slide block I50 is returned, by the pressure of the presser foot acting against the tread surfaceof a new shoe presented tothe machine, which pressure is transmitted through -the thicknesses of the shoe parts to clamp the welt against the work support. .The use of a welt severing knife as distinguished from a knife which partially cuts through the welt is. advantageous. in that. a smooth, bevel cut surface, ateach end of the welt isformed whenever the welt is. severed, no roughness being produced and. as a result, anaccurately fitting joint always willhe formed between the. abutting ends'of the welt one finished shoe. In addition, no reliance .is..made on thestrength of: an :uncut section of fi l-Q11? to withdraw from the machine a sumcient ng h Qi welt beyond the cut toinsure engagemerit ,Qf. the. welt end with the stitch forming devices starting anew seam: Weltmaterials o difi r nt qualities. and strengths therefore will ope a e equally as wellin a machine; in which the welt is severed completelmand the adjustment and sh rp ess oi the. knife. are lessvital factors inthe successful useof the machine. Furthermore, with the; end of welt. severed completely, a less secure grip 1 the welt. is. needed to advance t ndremaininsin the. machine across the sewing point than is required to clamp.- the welt inst t e unlim ted withdrawal, as in themai e of th applicat on! Consequently, the parts for advancing the. welt may bemadefromweaker and lighter materials; and less injury to the welt willresult. H V v The nature and scope of the invention having been indicated and a particular embodiment having been described, what is claimedisz. r '1. In a sewing machine for use in the; manufacture 'of shoes of the stitchdown type, the combination with stitch forming devices acting to; secure a welt progressively to the outturned upper and projecting sole margin of a. shoe, and a welt gui'de'for directing the welt into a. position on the outturned shoe upper in advance of the sewing point, of a knife-constructed and mounted with relation to the welt guide tosever the welt along a portion thereof in contact with the shoe upper.

2. In a sewing machine for use in the. manufacture of shoes of the stitchdown type, the combination with stitch forming devices acting to.- secure a welt progressively to the outturned upper /and prm'ectingsolemargin'of'a shoe, and a welt gui'd'efor' directing the welt into. a position on the outturned shoe upper in advance of the sewing point, of a knife constructed and-mounted with relation to. the welt guide to sever the welt along portion, thereof contact with the shoejuppeii and; means flor' advancing thesevered end of the welt remaining in the machine across the sewing point in preparation for a new sewing operation.

3. In a sewing machine for use'in the manufacture of shoes of the stitchdowntype, the combination with stitch forming devices acting to secure a welt progressively to the outturned upper and projecting sole margin of a shoe, and a'welt guide for directing the welt intoa position on the outturned shoeupper in advance of the sewing point, of a knife constructed and mounted with relation to the welt guide to sever the welt" along a portion thereof in contact with the shoe upper, and driving and stopping mechanism for actuating the knife and thereafter for causing the stitch forming devices to insert a stitch connecting the final end of the welt on the shoe with the end first sewed to the shoe.

4. In a sewing machine for use in the manufacture of shoes of the stitchdown type, the combination with stitch forming devices acting to secure a welt progressively to the outturned-upper and projecting sole margin of a shoe, and a well; guide for directing the-welt into a position on the outturned shoe upper in advance of the sewing point, of driving and stopping mechanism construoted and arranged when thrown into operation during sewing to bring the stitch forming devices to rest after having inserted two stitches, a knife for severing the welt along a portion thereof in contact with the shoe uppenmechanism for actuating the knife, and connections between the driving and stopping mechanism and the knife actuating mechanism for causing the knife to be actuated before the second-to-last stitch is inserted.

5. In a sewing machine for use in the manufacture of shoes having outturned uppers, the come bination with stitch forming devices acting to secure a welt progressively to a shoe, a welt guide for directing the welt into a position on the out? turned upper of a shoe in advance of the sewing point, and driving and stopping mechanism for bringing the machine to rest with the stitch forming devices free of the shoe, of a welt severing knifemounted for operation on the welt along a portion thereof in sewing position on the shoe, and connections between the knife and the driving and stopping mechanism for-causing the knife to be actuated before the final stitch in a seam is inserted. V

6. Ina sewing machine, the combination with stitch forming devices and a guide for directing a welt into contact with the work in advance of the sewing point, of a knife constructed and mountedwith relation to the welt guide to sever the welt at the end of a seam along that portion thereof in contact with the work.

7'. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch forming. devices and a guide. for directing a welt into contactwith the work in advance of the sewing point,. of a knife constructed and mounted with relation to the welt, guide to sever the welt along that portion thereof in contact with the work, and power driven. mechanism for actuating the knife at the end of a seam;

8. In a sewing machine, they combination with stitch forming devices and a. guide for directing aweltinto contact with the work in. advance of the sewing point, of'a knrfe, for severing thev welt along that portion thereof in contact with the work, and driving and stopping mechanism constructed and arranged when thrown into operation to cause the knife to be actuated and there.- after to cause the machine to be driven through twocomplete sewing cycles;

meansset in operation by release of the treadle 9. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch forming devices and a guide for directing a, welt into contact with the work in advance of the sewing point, of a knife for severing the welt along that portion thereof in contact with the work, normally inoperative mechanism for'actuating the knife, and driving and stopping mechanism constructed and arranged when thrown into operation to render the knife actuating mechanism operative, thereafter to cause the machine to be driven through more than a single complete sewing cycle and then to bring the machine to rest with the stitch forming devices free of the work.

10. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch forming devices and a guide for directing a welt into contact with the work in advance of the sewing point, of a knife for severing the welt along that portion thereof in contact with the work with a bias cut, and driving and stopping mechanism constructed and arranged when thrown into operation to cause the knife to be actuated, thereafter to cause the machine to insert one stitch passing through the bias cut surface at the severed end of the welt attached to the work and then to insert a second stitch with exposed thread overlapping the extreme severed end of the welt. i

11. In a welt attaching machine, the combinationwith attaching devices acting to secure a welt progressively to a work piece, a welt guide, a knife mounted to cut the welt, and driving and stopping mechanism acting when thrown into operation during attaching operations to causethe knife to be actuated and then to bring the machine to rest with the attaching devices disengaged from the work piece, of means for insuring performance of two attaching operations on the work piece after the welt is cut.

12. In a welt attaching machine, the combination with attaching devices acting to secure a welt progressively to a work piece, a welt guide, a knife mounted to cut the welt, mechanism for actuating the knife, and driving and stopping mechanism acting when thrown into operation during attaching operations to set the knife actuating mechanism in operation and then to bring the machine to rest with the attaching devices disengaged from the work, of counting means for preventing the driving and stopping mechanism from bringing the machine to rest until at least two attaching operations have been performed on the work piece after the welt is cut.

13. In a welt attaching machine, the combination with attaching devices acting to secure a welt progressively to a work piece, a welt guide, a knife mounted to cut the welt, driving and stopping mechanism acting when thrown into operation during attaching operations to cause the knife to be actuated and then to bring the machine to rest with the welt attaching devices disengaged from the work piece, and a yieldinglyactuated depressible treadle for controlling the driving and stopping mechanism, of countingmeans for preventing the driving and stopping mechanism from bringing the machine to rest after the treadle has been released until at least two attaching operations have been performed on the work piece. 14. In a weltattaching machine, the combination with welt attaching devices, driving and stopping mechanism acting when thrown into operation to bring the machine to rest, and a yieldingly actuated depressible treadle for controlling the driving and stopping mechanism, of counting to ,prevent the driving v and stopping mechanism from bringing the machine to-rest until at least two attachingoperations are performed on the work. r

,-15 In a-shoe devices for performing an operation on a shoe, driving and stopping mechanism comprising a vibrating lever, a lock bolt arranged for engagement with the vibrating lever to bring the machine to rest, a yieldingly actuateddepressible treadle for disengaging the lock bolt from thevibrating lever, and a finger havingstep surfaces mounted in the path of the vibrating lever to prevent engagement of the lock bolt with the vibrating lever until the step surfaces on the fingersuccessively engage the vibrating lever.

16. In a welt attaching machine, thecombination; with welt attaching devices, driving and stopping mechanism acting when thrown into operation to? bring the machine to rest, a-yieldinglyiactuated depressible treadle forcontroliing the driving and stopping mechanism, countingmeans set in operation by release of the treadle to prevent the driving and stopping mechanismifrom bringing the machineto rest until at least-two attaching operations are performed on the'work, and means for performing an auxiliary operation on the work, of an arm connected'to the counting means for setting the auxiliary work performing means in operation. i i i I l I 17. In a welt attaching machine; thecombin'ation with welt attaching devices, driving and stopping mechanism acting when thrown into operation to bring the machine to rest, a yieldingly actuated depressible treadle for controlling the driv-'- ing and stopping mechanism, counting means set in operation by releaseof the treadle to prevent the driving and stopping mechanism from bringing the machine to rest until at least two attaching operations are performed on the work, means for performing an auxiliary operation on the work, and. an arm connected to the counting means for setting the auxiliary work performing means in operation, of means for disconnecting the setting arm from the counting means'after the auxiliary mechanism has been set inoperation. l

18. In a welt attachin machine, the combination with welt attaching devices, driving and stopping mechanism acting when thrown into operation to bring the machine to rest, a yieldingly actuated depressible treadle for controllingthe driving and stopping mechanism, counting means set in operation by release of the treadle to pre- ,vent the driving and stopping mechanism from bringing the machine to rest until at least two attaching operations are performed on the work, means for performing an auxiliary operation on the work, and an arm. connected to the counting means for setting the auxiliary work performing means in operation, of a latch for connecting the setting means to the counting means, and an abutment on the counting means located to be engaged by the latch in one position of the counting means and to be disengaged from the latch in another position of the counting means.

19. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch forming devices, driving and stopping mechanism comprising a vibrating lever, a lock bolt arranged for engagement with the vibrating lever to bring the machine to rest and a lock bolt, carrier mounted to yield when the lock bolt engages the vibrating lever, a yieldingly actuated depressible treadle for disengaging the lock bolt machine, the commu ities from the vibrating lever and mechanism for performing an auxiliary operation on the work, of a counting finger having step surfaces mounted on the lock bolt in the path of the vibrating lever to block engagement of the lock bolt with the vibrating lever until the step surfaces on the finger successively engage the vibrating lever, an arm on the lock bolt carrier for setting the auxiliary mechanism in readiness for operation, and means for connecting the counting finger to the setting arm to impart a single movement to the setting arm when the counting finger is actuated by the vibrating lever and for disconnecting the setting arm before the lock bolt engages the vibrating lever.

20. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch forming devices, driving and stopping mechanism comprising a vibrating lever, a lock bolt arranged for engagement with the vibrating lever to bring the machine to rest and a lock bolt carrier mounted to yield when the lock bolt engages the vibratin lever, a yieldingly actuated depressible treadle for disengaging the lock bolt from the vibrating lever and mechanism for performing an auxiliary operation on the work, of a counting finger having step surfaces mounted on the lock bolt in the path of the vibrating lever, and a detent surface cooperating with a detent n the lock bolt carrier to block engagement of the lock bolt with the vibrating lever until the step and detent surfaces successively engage the vibrating lever.

21. In a welt attachin machine, the combination with stitch forming. devices, a slotted welt guide for directing awelt toward the point of operation of the stitch forming devices, a slide mounted on the welt guide and having a welt engaging element entering a slot in the welt guide, and means for advancing the welt toward the point of operation of the stitch forming devices, comprising a lever pivotally mounted on the slide, and a, flexible connection with the lever arranged when actuated to cause the lever to grip the welt against the welt engaging element and to move the slide toward the point of operation of the stitch forming devices.

22. In sewing machine, the combination with stitch forming devices, a guide for directing awelt into contact with the work in advance of the sewing point, and a work support and a presser foot for clamping the work adjacent to the sewing point, of a knife constructed and mounted with relation to the welt guide and work support to sever the welt along that portion thereof clamped by the work support and presserfoot.

23. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch forming devices, a guide for directing a welt into contact with the work in advance of the sewing point, and a work support and a presser foot for clamping the work adjacent to the sewing point, of a, knife constructed and mounted with relation to the welt guide and work support to sever the welt along that portion thereof clamped by the work support and presser foot, and mechanism for actuating the knife at the end of a seam and thereafter for releasing the work from the clamping pressure of the work support and presser foot.

.24. In a sewing machinefthe combinationwith stitch formingdevices, a guide for directing a welt into contact with the work in advance of the sewing point, a work support and a presser foot for clamping the work adjacent to the sewing point, anda drivingand stopping mechanism acting when thrown into operation to bring the machine to rest with the stitch forming devices disengaged from the work and the work released from the clamping pressure of the work support and presser foot, of a knife for severing the welt along that portion clamped by the work support and presser foot, and mechanism set into operation by the driving and stopping mechanism to actuate the knife near the end of a seam before the work is released from the clamping pressure of the work support and presser foot. Y

25'. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch forming devices, a guide fordirecting a welt into contact with the work in advance of the sewing point, a work support and a presser foot for clamping the work adjacent to the sewing point, and a driving and stopping mechanism acting when thrown into operation to bring the machine to rest with the stitch forming devices disengaged from the work and the work released from the clamping pressure of the work support and presser foot, of a knife for severing the welt along that portion clamped by the work support and presser foot, mechanism set into operation by the driving and stopping mechanism to actuate the knife nearthe end of a seam before the work is released from the clamping pressure of the work support and presser foot, and means for advancing the severed end of welt remaining in the machine across the sewing point after the work is releasedin preparation for a new sewing operation.

26. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch forming devices, a guide for directing a welt into contact with the work in advance of the sewing point, a work support and a presser foot for clamping the work adjacent to the sewing p'oint and a driving and stopping mechanism acting when thrown into operation to bring the machine to rest with the stitch forming devices disengaged from the work and the work released from the clamping pressure of the work support and presser foot, of a knife for severing the welt along that portion clamped by the work support and presser foot, mechanism set into operation by the driving and stopping mechanism to actu- .ate the knife nearthe end of a seam before the work is released from the clamping pressure of the work support and presser foot, welt engaging means constructed and arranged to advance the severed end of welt remaining in the machine, and connections actuated by the driving and stopping mechanismto cause the welt engaging means to advance the welt after the work is released from the pressure of the work support and presser foot.

27. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch forming and work feeding devices, a guide for directing a welt into contact with the work in advance of the sewing point, and a work support and a. presser foot for clamping the work adjacent to the sewing point, of a knife acting against the work as a cutting block and constructed and mounted with relation to the welt guide to sever the welt, and mechanism for actuating the knife while the sewing operations are continuing to enable the severed ends of the welt to separate during feed Without causing'the end remaining in the machine to become attached by the continued operations.

7 FRED ASHWORTH. 

